Table of Contents : Berg Fashion Library

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Volume 1: Africa
Editors: Joanne B. Eicher, University of Minnesota, USA and Doran H. Ross, Fowler Museum, University of California, Los Angeles, USA

Volume 2: Latin America and the Caribbean
Editor: Margot Blum Schevill, Textiles and Folk Art Consultant, USA
Consulting Editors: Blenda Femenías, George Washington University, USA and Lynn Meisch, St Mary's College of California, USA

Volume 3: The United States and Canada
Editor: Phyllis G. Tortora, Queens College, City University of New York, USA
Consultant: Joseph D. Horse Capture, Minneapolis Institute of Arts, USA

Volume 4: South Asia and Southeast Asia
Editor: Jasleen Dhamija, Independent Scholar, India

Volume 5: Central and Southwest Asia
Editor: Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Textile Research Centre and the National Museum of Ethnology, Leiden, The Netherlands

Volume 6: East Asia
Editor: John E. Vollmer, Vollmer Cultural Consultants Inc., Canada

Volume 7: Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands
Editor: Margaret Maynard, University of Queensland, Australia

Volume 8: West Europe
Editor: Lise Skov, Copenhagen Business School, Denmark
Consulting Editor: Valerie Cumming, Dress Historian, Costume Society and formerly Museum of London, UK

Volume 9: East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus
Editor: Djurdja Bartlett, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK
Assistant Editor: Pamela Smith, Independent Writer and Speaker on Russian and East European Arts, UK

Volume 10: Global Perspectives
Editor: Joanne B. Eicher, University of Minnesota, USA
Assistant Editor: Phyllis G. Tortora, Queens College, City University of New York, USA

Volume 1: Africa

Encyclopedia Preface
Preface to Africa

PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in Africa
Introduction: The Study of African Dress
Joanne B. Eicher and Doran H. Ross

Climatic Zones and Cultural Regions
Philip W. Porter

PART 2 : History of Dress and Fashion in Africa
Archaeological Evidence
Fred T. Smith

Photographic and Other Visual Sources
Christraud M. Geary

Prehistory to Colonialism
Marie-Amy Mbow

Colonialism to Independence
Heather Marie Akou

Independence to Present
Suzanne Gott

SNAPSHOT: Heads of State and Dress
Suzanne Gott

Fashion in African Dress
Victoria L. Rovine

African Fashion Designers
Victoria L. Rovine

PART 3: Types of Dress in Africa
Body and Beauty
Babatunde Lawal

Body Modification and Body Art
Lisa Aronson

Jewelry
Kristyne Loughran

Headdresses and Hairdos
Mary Jo Arnoldi

Beads and Beadwork
Sandra Klopper

Footwear
Doran H. Ross

Masquerade, Theater, Dance Costumes
Herbert M. Cole

Children’s Masquerade Costumes
Simon Ottenberg

PART 4 : African Textiles
North Africa
Fred T. Smith

West Africa
Lisa Aronson

East Africa
Sandra Klopper and Rehema Nchimbi

Southern Africa
Juliette Leeb-du Toit

PART 5 : North Africa
Algeria
Judith Scheele

Egypt: Historical Dress
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood and
Tineke Rooijakkers

Dress in Egypt in the Twentieth Century
Betty Wass El-Wakil

SNAPSHOT: Dance Costumes
Margaret A. Deppe

SNAPSHOT: Libya
Doran H. Ross

Morocco
Cynthia J. Becker

Tunisia
Meriem Chida

Mauritania and Western Sahara
Hudita Nura Mustafa

PART 6: West Africa
Benin
Joseph C. E. Adande

Burkina Faso
Christopher D. Roy

Senegal and Gambia
Hudita Nura Mustafa

SNAPSHOT: Designer Oumou Sy
Hudita Nura Mustafa

Ghana
SNAPSHOT: Asantehene Nana Osei Bonsu (r. 1804–1823)
Doran H. Ross

Guinea
Mohamed N’Daou

Guinea-Bissau
Walter Hawthorne and Clara Carvalho

Côte d’Ivoire 264
SNAPSHOT: Miss Zahui and Tapa
Barbara Sumberg and Remi Douah

Liberia
Jane Martin

Mali
Mary Jo Arnoldi

Niger
Kristyne Loughran

Nigeria Overview
John Picton

Yoruba in Nigeria and Diaspora
Rowland Abiodun

Hausa in Nigeria and Diaspora
Norma H. Wolff

Igbo in Nigeria and Diaspora
Herbert M. Cole

The Kingdom of Benin
Kathy Curnow

Lower Niger Delta Peoples and Diaspora
Martha G. Anderson and E. J. Alagoa

SNAPSHOT: Kalabari Peoples of Nigeria
Joanne B. Eicher

The Nigerian Fashion Scene
SNAPSHOT: Shade Thomas-Fahm (b. 1933)
LaRay Denzer

Sierra Leone
SNAPSHOT: Sierra Leone—Dress and Undress
Frederick John Lamp

Togo
Agbenyega Adedze

Cameroon
Christraud M. Geary

PART 7: Central Africa
Central African Republic
Michelle Kisliuk and Justin Serge Mongosso

Chad
Kristyne Loughran

Republic of Congo and Democratic Republic of Congo
SNAPSHOT: Le Sape

SNAPSHOT: Negotiating Identity
Elisabeth L. Cameron

Mangbetu Dress
Enid Schildkrout and Curtis A. Keim

Kuba Dress and Textiles
Elisabeth L. Cameron

Equatorial Guinea
Enrique Okenve

Gabon
Judith Knight and Rachel Jean-Baptiste

Fang of Equatorial Guinea and Gabon
Louis P. Perrois
Translated by Francine Farr

PART 8: Horn of Africa
Ethiopia
Peri M. Klemm

SNAPSHOT: Eritrea
Peri M. Klemm

Somalia
SNAPSHOT: Cultural Crosscurrents in Somalia
Heather Marie Akou

SNAPSHOT: Djibouti
Peri M. Klemm

Sudan
Susan M. Kenyon

PART 9: East Africa
Madagascar
John Mack

Tanzania
Sandra Klopper and Rehema Nchimbi

SNAPSHOT: Kanga
Thadeus Shio

Kenya
Corinne A. Kratz

Uganda
Venny Nakazibwe and Sylvia Nannyonga-Tamusuza

Rwanda and Burundi
Michele D. Wagner

PART 10: Southern Africa
Angola
Manuel Jordán Pérez

Botswana
Deborah Durham

Lesotho
Gary van Wyk

Malawi
Barbara W. Blackmun

Mozambique
SNAPSHOT: Capulanas
Kathleen Sheldon

Namibia
Hildi Hendrickson

South Africa Overview
Patricia Davison

Nguni, Zulu, and Xhosa Dress and Beadwork
Gary van Wyk

Pedi, Ndebele, and Ntwane Dress and Beadwork
Sandra Klopper

Tsonga Dress and Fashion
Rayda Becker

Migrant Workers, Production, and Fashion
Sandra Klopper and Fiona Rankin-Smith

Women’s Cooperatives and Self-Help Artists
Kimberly Miller and Brenda Schmahmann

Swaziland
Lombuso Khoza

Zambia
Ruth Kerkham Simbao

Zimbabwe
William J. Dewey

Index

Volume 2: Latin America and the Caribbean

Encyclopedia Preface
Preface to Latin America and the Caribbean

PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in
Latin America and the Caribbean

Introductory Note to Latin America and the Caribbean
Margot Blum Schevill

Regional Dress of Latin America in a European Context
Patricia Rieff Anawalt

Film and Fashion
Alba F. Aragón

PART 2: Mexico
Overview of Mexico
Chloë Sayer

Ancient Maya
Matthew Looper

Mixtec Dress
Robert Lloyd Williams

Mixtec Hairstyles
Holly Parker

Mexican Headwear
Beverly Chico

The China Poblana
Virginia Davis

Used Clothing
Mélissa Gauthier

Maya Dress and Fashion in Chiapas
SNAPSHOT: A Self-Directed Huipil Weaver
Ashley E. Maynard and Patricia Marks Greenfield

Zinacantán Indigenous Fashion
SNAPSHOT: Depicting Indigenousness
Yosi Anaya

Zapotec Clothing in Oaxaca
Grace Johnson

Mazahua Dress
Pamela Scheinman

The Yucatán
Yolanda Garfi as Woo

Contemporary Veracruz Textiles
Yosi Anaya

Folklore Influences in Mexico and Panama
Tasha Lewis

Sna Jolobil: A Textile Cooperative
SNAPSHOT: Interview with Cofounder of Sna Jolobil,
Walter F. Morris Jr.

SNAPSHOT: Interview with Sna Jolobil Associate,
Juan Giron López

Kathryn Klein

Dress in Mexican Cinema
Isabel Arredondo

PART 3: Central America
Overview of Central America
José Blanco F.

Belize
Yolanda Garfi as Woo

Maya Dress and Fashion in Guatemala
Barbara Knoke de Arathoon and Rosario Miralbés de Polanco

Southern Maya Dress of Southwestern Guatemala
Matthew Looper

SNAPSHOT: Modern Maya Children’s Dress
Traci Ardren

The Maya of Tecpán, Guatemala
Carol Hendrickson

Clothing and Identities in the Eyes of Women
Comalapan Painters of Guatemala
Linda Asturias de Barrios

Spanish Influences in Maya Clothing of Guatemala
Olga Arriola de Geng

The Huipil of Guatemala
J. Claire Odland

Morrales in Guatemala
Kathryn Rousso

Women’s Hair Sashes of Mesoamerica
Carol Ventura

Dress of Eastern Guatemala
Kathryn Rousso

SNAPSHOT: Maya Traditions: A Weaving Cooperative
Jane Mintz

The Mola Blouses of the Kuna from Panama
Teena Jennings-Rentenaar

National Dress of Panama: La Pollera
Laurie Harris and Tasha Lewis

Central American Headwear
Beverly Chico

PART 4: The Caribbean
Overview of the Caribbean
Steeve O. Buckridge

Vodou Ritual Garments in Haiti
Susan Elizabeth Tselos

Creolized Costumes for Rara, Haiti
Susan Elizabeth Tselos

Jamaica in the Nineteenth Century to the Present
Steeve O. Buckridge

Dress and Dance in Puerto Rico
Raúl J. Vázquez López

Trinidad in the Nineteenth Century
Dominique Heyse-Moore

Cuba
Araceli Tinajero

Caribbean Headwear
Beverly Chico

PART 5: South America
Overview of South America
SNAPSHOT: Metallurgy
Lynn A. Meisch

History of Dress in Venezuela
Cecilia Rodríguez Lenmann

Pre-Hispanic Dress in Colombia and Ecuador
Karen Olsen Bruhns

National Brand of Colombia
Daniel Salazar Angarita

Contemporary Ecuador
Lynn A. Meisch

The Shuar and Achuar of Ecuador and Peru
Nancy B. Rosoff

Pre-Hispanic Northern Peru
Amy Oakland

The Nasca on the South Coast of Peru
Mary Frame

Southern Highland Peru
Andrea M. Heckman

Choquecancha, Peru
Katharine E. Seibold

SNAPSHOT: The Center for Traditional Textiles of Cuzco, Peru
Nilda Callañaupa and Timothy Wells

Textile Arts of Taquile Island, Peru
Elayne Zorn

SNAPSHOT: The Peruvian Connection: A Retail Company
Victoria Z. Rivers

Ancient Attire of the Southern Andes
Amy Oakland

SNAPSHOT: Aymara Women’s Dress of La Paz, Bolivia
Lynn A. Meisch

Cloth of the Sakaka of Bolivia
Elayne Zorn

SNAPSHOT: Evo Morales and the Politics of Dress in Bolivia
Elayne Zorn

Nineteenth-Century Afro-Brazilian Women’s Dress
Kelly Mohs Gage

Cloth and African Identity in Bahia, Brazil
Deborah Valoma

Dress, Body, and Culture in Brazil
Rita Andrade and Regina A. Root

History of Dress in the Southern Cone
Carol García, Eva Medalla, Laura Novik, and Regina A. Root

Dress and Fashion in Argentina
Laura Novik and Regina A. Root

Textile Arts of the Mapuche of Chile
Grace Johnson

Military Fashion and Coup d’Etat in Chile
Carmen Oquendo-Villar

Textile Art Production in Paraguay
Christina Turner

SNAPSHOT: Manos de Uruguay: A Cooperative Umbrella
Lynn A. Meisch

SNAPSHOT: Raíz Diseño—A Nongovernmental Organization
Regina A. Root

South American Headwear
Beverly Chico

Index

Volume 3: The United States and Canada

Encyclopedia Preface
Preface to the United States and Canada

PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in the United States and Canada
The Geographic and Cultural Region
Phyllis G. Tortora

Evidence about Dress of Indigenous People: United States Territory
SNAPSHOT: Prehistoric Moccasins
Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff

Evidence about Dress of Indigenous People: Canadian Territory
Michèle Hayeur Smith

Evidence about Dress in the United States
Jean L. Druesedow

Evidence about Dress in Canada
Christina Bates

PART 2: Fashion in the United States and Canada
Introduction to Fashion
Phyllis G. Tortora

Tradition and Fashion
Elizabeth D. Lowe

Types and Properties of Fashionable Dress
Phyllis G. Tortora

SNAPSHOT: Jeans
Phyllis G. Tortora

Regional Differences in Dress and Fashion
Nancy O. Bryant

The Textile Industry
Sara J. Kadolph and Sara B. Marcketti

The Pattern Industry
Carol Anne Dickson

The Garment Industry and Retailing in the United States
Rob Schorman

Fashion Designers, Seamstresses, and Tailors
Cynthia Amnéus

Textile and Apparel Industries at the Turn of the Millennium
Kitty G. Dickerson

The Garment Industry and Retailing in Canada
Cynthia Cooper

Writing about Fashions
Sandra Stansbery Buckland

Shoes and Shoemaking
Elizabeth Semmelhack

SNAPSHOT: Hosiery
Nan H. Mutnick

Accessories of Dress
Celia Stall-Meadows

The Jewelry Industry
SNAPSHOT: Hawaiian Jewelry
Carol Anne Dickson

Antifashion
SNAPSHOT: Beats and the Beat Generation

SNAPSHOT: Lesbian Looks

SNAPSHOT: Zoot Suiters

Susan B. Kaiser and Ryan Looysen

Body and Dress
Angela Durante and Jenny Ellison

Body Art
Therèsa M. Winge

Dress Reform
Patricia A. Cunningham

Ecological Issues in Dress
Jana M. Hawley

PART 3: Demographic and Social Influences on Dress
Introduction to Demographic and Social Influences
Phyllis G. Tortora

Children and Adolescents in the United States
SNAPSHOT: The “Fauntleroy Plague”
Jo Barraclough Paoletti

Aging
Nora M. MacDonald

Gender
Susan O. Michelman and Kimberly Miller-Spillman

Class
Elizabeth D. Lowe

Functional Dress
SNAPSHOT: Mobility in Pressurized Garments
SNAPSHOT: Textile Design and Functional Dress
Susan M. Watkins

Dress for Rites of Passage
Annette Lynch

Influence of the Arts
Jo Ann C. Stabb

Film
Patricia Campbell Warner

Masquerade Dress
Cynthia Cooper

Television
Patricia A. Cunningham

Music and Dress in the United States
Therèsa M. Winge

Music and Dress in Canada
Martha Ladly

Uniforms as Work Dress for Civilians and Military
SNAPSHOT: Canada’s North West Mounted Police in London, 1897
Thomas S. Abler

Conventional Work Dress and Casual Work Dress
Colleen Gau

Dress for Recreational Sports and Professional Sports
Susan L. Sokolowski

Dress for Avocational and Historic-Site Reenacting
Mitchell D. Strauss

Leisure
Jean L. Parsons

Health
Jane Farrell-Beck

Care of Dress
SNAPSHOT: Wash Day at Mount Holyoke Seminary
Patricia Campbell Warner

PART 4: North American Indian/First Nation Peoples
Introduction to the North American Indian and First Nation Peoples
Phyllis G. Tortora

Shared and Unique Traditions and Practices
Joyce M. Szabo

The Arctic
SNAPSHOT: Snow Goggles
Birgit Pauksztat

The Subarctic
Judy Thompson

The Northwest Coast
Kathryn B. Bunn-Marcuse

SNAPSHOT: History of the Graduation Button Blanket
Sandra Price

California
David W. Rickman

The Plateau
Steven L. Grafe

The Great Basin
Catherine S. Fowler

The Southwest
Nancy J. Parezo

The Plains
Adriana Greci Green

The Northeast
SNAPSHOT: Twined Bags
Linda Welters

The Southeast
Jason Baird Jackson

Influence of North American Indian and First Nations Dress on Mainstream Fashion
SNAPSHOT: One First Nations Fashion Designer’s Journey
Pamela C. Baker and Phyllis G. Tortora

PART 5: Cultural Groups in the United States and Canada
Introduction to Cultural Groups
Phyllis G. Tortora

Western Wear
Laurel Wilson

Religion and Dress
Phyllis G. Tortora

SNAPSHOT: Identity and Gender in Traditional Jewish Dress
Eric K. Silverman

SNAPSHOT: Amish, Mennonites, Hutterites, and Brethren
Jean L. Druesedow

SNAPSHOT: Quakers and Shakers
Beverly Gordon

SNAPSHOT: Old Believers
Phyllis G. Tortora

Utopian and Intentional Communities
Heather Van Wormer

Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual, and Transgendered Persons
Andrew Reilly

Antebellum African Americans
Helen Bradley Foster

Immigrants Encounter North American Dress
SNAPSHOT: Dress of Norwegian Americans
Linda Welters

SNAPSHOT: Acadians
Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff

American Immigrants of West European Origin
SNAPSHOT: Aprons
Judy Zaccagnini Flynn

African American
Gwendolyn S. O’Neal

Caribbean Islanders
José Blanco F.

Asian American
Usha Chowdhary

Hispanic and Latino American
SNAPSHOT: Jennifer Lopez
SNAPSHOT: The Hispanic and Latino Zoot Suit
Josephine M. Moreno

Dress in Hawai’i since 1898
Linda Boynton Arthur

Middle Eastern
Mary H. Farahnakian

Index

Volume 4: South Asia and Southeast Asia

Encyclopedia Preface
Preface to South Asia and Southeast Asia

PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in South Asia and Southeast Asia
Introductory Note on South Asia and Southeast Asia
Jasleen Dhamija

Dress and Its Symbolic Significance in South Asia and Southeast Asia
Victoria Z. Rivers

PART 2: Dress and Fashion in South Asia
Introduction to South Asia
Jasleen Dhamija

History of Textiles of South Asia
Jasleen Dhamija

Body Decoration in South Asia
Archana Shastri

Fashion and the Garment Industry in South Asia
Vandana Bhandari

Cross-Dressing in South Asia
Alka Pande

PART 3: Countries of South Asia
India
Jasleen Dhamija

Pakistan
Nasreen Askari

Bangladesh
Niaz Zaman

Nepal
Claire Burkert

Sri Lanka
Nira Wickramasinghe and Farzana Haniffa

Bhutan
Tshering Uden Penjor

The Maldive Islands
Jasleen Dhamija

PART 4: Types of Dress in South Asia
The Sari
SNAPSHOT: The Sari and the Kimono
Aarti Kawlra

Stitched and Shaped Garments
SNAPSHOT: Storage of Clothing in Ancient India
Kalyan Krishna
Jewelry of Indo-Pakistan and Bangladesh
Usha Bala

The Sash, Patka, or Kamarband
B. N. Goswamy

The Shawl and the Head Cover
Rosemary Crill

The Kashmir Shawl: A Historical Study
SNAPSHOT: Pashmina, Cashmere, and Shahtoosh
Janet Rizvi

The Kashmir Shawl and Its Use in the Indo- Islamic World and Europe
Janet Rizvi

The Turban: India and Pakistan
Vandana Bhandari

South Asian Footwear: History, Tradition, and Contemporary Trends
Jutta Jain-Neubauer

PART 5: Peoples and Dress of South Asia
Ladakh
Monisha Ahmed

Dress of the Exile: Tibetan
Monisha Ahmed and Susan Vickery

Himalayan Buddhist Communities
Monisha Ahmed

Nagaland and Nagas of Manipur
Vibha Joshi

Ethnic Groups of Arunachal Pradesh, Northeast India
Sucheta Sen Chaudhuri and Sarit Kumar Chaudhuri

Rites of Passage and Rituals in India
Jasleen Dhamija

SNAPSHOT: The Erotic in Indian Dress
Jasleen Dhamija

Colonial Influence on Dress in the Indian Subcontinent
Donald Clay Johnson

Royal Dress in India and Pakistan
Ritu Kumar

Fashion in Post-Independence India
Laila Tyabji

Ethnic Dress and Jewelry of the Hill Tribes of Chittagong
Arshi Dewan Roy

SNAPSHOT: Dress of the Ranas of Nepal
Gautam S.J.B. Rana

Colonial Influence on Dress in Sri Lanka
Nira Wickramasinghe

PART 6: Dress and Fashion in Southeast Asia
Introduction to Southeast Asia
Ruth Barnes Leedom

The Fashion World of Southeast Asia
Edric Ong Deborah

PART 7: Countries of Southeast Asia
Laos
Uraiwan Pitimaneeyakul and Karen L. LaBat

Vietnam
Christine Hemmet
Translated by Julie Banatre

Thailand
Uraiwan Pitimaneeyakul and Karen L. LaBat

Myanmar
Sylvia Fraser-Lu

Cambodia
Gillian Green

Cambodia: Historical Dress
Gillian Green

Malaysia
Norwani Md. Nawawi

Indonesia
Itie van Hout

Philippines: North
George R. Ellis

Philippines: Central
Florina H. Capistrano-Baker and Sandra B. Castro

Philippines: South
Cherubim Quizon

PART 8: Peoples and Dress of Southeast Asia
Rites of Passage and Rituals in Laos, Vietnam, Thailand, and Cambodia
Susan Conway

Rites of Passage and Ritual Traditions of the Shan
Susan Conway

Court Dress of Thailand: History and Symbolic Significance
Susan Conway

SNAPSHOT: The Thai King’s Colors
Leedom Lefferts

Body Modification in Thailand: Tattooing
Deborah Hill

The Sarong Kebaya of Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia
Chor Lin Lee

Beaded and Embroidered Accessories of the Peranakan Chinese
Hwei-Fe’n Cheah

The Textile Tradition of Malaysia and Its Impact on Dress
Adline Abdul Ghani

Jewelry of Malaysia
Mohammed Kassim Bin Haji Ali

Ethnic Dress and Adornment of the Dayaks of Sabah, Sarawak, and Kalimantan
Edric Ong

Chinese Dress in Singapore
Chor Lin Lee

Rites of Passage and Rituals in Indonesia
Marianne Hulsbosch

Colonial Influence on Dress in Indonesia
Itie van Hout

SNAPSHOT: Colonial Influence on the Sarong and Kain in Java
Marianne Hulsbosch

SNAPSHOT: Jewelry in Indonesia
Jasleen Dhamija

SNAPSHOT: Cross-Dressing in Indonesia
Marianne Hulsbosch

Batik Dress of Java
SNAPSHOT: Iwan Tirta and Javanese Batik Haute Couture
Maria Wronska-Friend

SNAPSHOT: Tattooing in the Philippines
Analyn V. Salvador-Amores

SNAPSHOT: Tooth Staining in the Philippines
Analyn V. Salvador-Amores

SNAPSHOT: Used Clothing in the Philippines
B. Lynne Milgram

SNAPSHOT: Revival of Piña Cloth and Dress: Southern Luzon and Central Philippines
B. Lynne Milgram

PART 9: Dress of the Diaspora
Miao/Hmong in Australia
Maria Wronska-Friend

Miao/Hmong in the United States
Mary Alice Chaney

South Asian Diaspora
Hazel A. Lutz

Index

Volume 5: Central and Southwest Asia

Encyclopedia Preface
Preface to Central and Southwest Asia

PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in Central and Southwest Asia
Introduction to Dress and Fashion in Central and Southwest Asia
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Climate, Geography, and Dress
Willem Vogelsang

History of Dress and Fashion
Willem Vogelsang

Pre-Islamic Dress Codes in the Eastern Mediterranean and Southwest Asia
Mary Harlow and Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones

The Coming of Islam and Its Infl uence on Dress
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Jewish Dress in Central and Southwest Asia and the Diaspora
Esther Juhasz

Dress Reforms of the Early Twentieth Century in Turkey, Iran, and Afghanistan
Derek Bryce

SNAPSHOT: Turkish Fashion Designers
Fatma Mete

SNAPSHOT: ANAT, Syria
Heike Weber

SNAPSHOT: An Omani Fashion Designer
Julia M. Al-Zadjali

SNAPSHOT: An Afghan Fashion Show
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Hussein Chalayan: Controversial Fashion Designer or Bridge between East and West?
Bradley Quinn

Sources of Information about Dress in Southwest Asia
Tineke Rooijakkers

Central and Southwest Asian Dress Studies
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

PART 2: Textiles of Central and Southwest Asia
Trade, Textiles, and Dress in Central and Southwest Asia
Abby Lillethun

SNAPSHOT: Textiles of Central Asia
Abby Lillethun

SNAPSHOT: Trade, Textiles, Dress, and the Hajj
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Tiraz: Textiles and Dress with Inscriptions in Central and Southwest Asia
Margaret Anne Deppe

PART 3: Anatolia and the Eastern Mediterranean
Historical Survey of Textiles and Dress in Turkey
Charlotte Jirousek

Turkish Embroidery
Sumru Belger Krody

Ottoman Dress
Nancy Micklewright

The Kaftan and Its Origins
Charlotte Jirousek

Royal Dress Preserved at the Topkapi Museum
Hülya Tezcan

SNAPSHOT: Turkish Costume Albums
Jennifer M. Scarce

Regional Dress in Anatolia
Jennifer M. Scarce

Dress in Modern Israel
Ayala Raz

Christian Secular, Monastic, and Liturgical Dress in the Eastern Mediterranean
Karel C. Innemée

Arab Men’s Dress in the Eastern Mediterranean
Widad Kawar and Sibba Einarsdóttir

Palestinian Women’s Dress
Widad Kawar and Sibba Einarsdóttir

Palestinian Scarves and Flag Dresses
Tineke Rooijakkers

Palestinian Embroidery
Tineke Rooijakkers and Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Embroidery Workshops in Palestine
Heike Weber

Jordanian Women’s Dress
Widad Kawar and Sibba Einarsdóttir

Syria
Tineke Rooijakkers and Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Lebanese Women’s Dress
Nour Majdalany Hakim

SNAPSHOT: Druze Dress
Heike Weber and Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

PART 4: Arabian Desert and Peninsula
Introduction to the History of Dress in the Arabian Desert and Peninsula
Tineke Rooijakkers

Bedouin Jewelry
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Saudi Arabian Dress
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Yemeni Dress
Christina Lindholm

Omani Dress
SNAPSHOT: The Abayeh in Oman
Julia M. Al-Zadjali

Dress from the Gulf States: Bahrain, Kuwait, Qatar, United Arab Emirates
Fadwa El Guindi and Wesam al-Othman

SNAPSHOT: The Abayeh in Qatar
Christina Lindholm

PART 5: Iranian Plateau
Introduction to the History of Dress on the Iranian Plateau
Willem Vogelsang

Iraqi Dress
Ulrike Al-Khamis and Saad Lafta Hami

Kurdish Dress
Layla Yousif Pio

Early Iranian Textiles and Their Influence on Pre-Islamic Dress
Irene Good

Iranian Regional Dress
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Iranian Urban Dress
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Reza Shah’s Dress Reforms in Iran
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Regional Dress of Afghanistan
Willem Vogelsang

Afghan Dress and the Diaspora
M. Catherine Daly

Afghan Jewelry
M. Catherine Daly

SNAPSHOT: Afghan Embroidery
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

The Chadari/Burqa of Afghanistan and Pakistan
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

PART 6: Central Asia
History of West Turkistan and Its Influence on the Dress of South Central Asia
Willem Vogelsang

Trouser Wearing by Horse-Riding Nomads in Central Asia
Willem Vogelsang

Turkmen Dress and Embroidery
SNAPSHOT: Turkmen Women’s Jewelry
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Dress from Tajikistan and Uzbekistan
Christina Sumner

Uzbek Textiles
Carter Malik

Dress from Kazakhstan
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Dress from Kyrgyzstan
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

PART 7: People and Dress in Central and Southwest Asia
Fitrah: Temporary and Permanent Body Modifications for Muslims
Irvin Cemil Schick

SNAPSHOT: Henna
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

SNAPSHOT: Indigo
Tineke Rooijakkers

Perfume and Incense
Julia M. Al-Zadjali

Weapons and Accessories
Willem Vogelsang

Birth, Marriage, and Death
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

The Tradition of the Bridal Trousseau
Sumru Belger Krody

Dress and Hadiths (“Traditions” or Sayings Attributed to the Prophet Mohammed)
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

SNAPSHOT: Dress of Shiites and Mystics
Ashgar Seyed-Gohrab

SNAPSHOT: Islamic Pilgrimage Dress (Ihram)
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

SNAPSHOT: Muharram and Dress
Ashgar Seyed-Gohrab

SNAPSHOT: Islam and Islamically Correct Dress (Hijab)
Fadwa El Guindi

Laws of Differentiation
Irvin Cemil Schick

Sumptuary Laws 456
Irvin Cemil Schick

Khil’a: Clothing to Honor a Person or Situation
Stewart Gordon

Face Veils
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

The Turban and Male Headgear
Beverly Chico

SNAPSHOT: Al-Washsha, a Medieval Fashion Guru
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

SNAPSHOT: Orientalism in Western Dress and Stage Costume
Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones

Dress and Tourism
Derek Bryce

Index

Volume 6: East Asia

Encyclopedia Preface
Preface to East Asia

PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in East Asia
Geographic and Cultural Introduction
John E. Vollmer

Archaeological Evidence: China and Inner Asia
Zhao Feng and Kuang Yanghua

Archaeological Evidence: Tibet
Valrae Reynolds

SNAPSHOT: Archaeological Evidence: Korea
Seongsil Park

SNAPSHOT: Archaeological Evidence: Japan
Mary M. Dusenbury

Historical Evidence: China and Inner Asia
John E. Vollmer

Historical Evidence: Tibet
Valrae Reynolds

Historical Evidence: Taiwan
Ho Zhaohua

Historical Evidence: Korea
Seongsil Park

Historical Evidence: Japan
Alan Kennedy

PART 2: Fashion and Identity in East Asia
East Asian Fashion Designers in Local and International Markets
Yuniya Kawamura

SNAPSHOT: International Fashion in East Asia
John E. Vollmer

Wearing Ethnic Identity: Power of Dress
Uradyn E. Bulag

Antifashion in East Asian Dress: Power of Uniforms
Brian J. McVeigh

SNAPSHOT: Body Concepts in Korea and North Asia 89
Jaehee Jung

Body Modification: Tattooing
Mieko Yamada

Footwear
SNAPSHOT: Foot Binding
Elizabeth Semmelhack

PART 3: China
Overview: Han Chinese
Juanjuan Wu and John E. Vollmer

Children’s Dress in China
Naomi Yin Yin Szeto

Bridal Dress in China
Juanjuan Wu

Textile and Garment Manufacture and Retailing in China
Dong Shen

Cheongsam: Chinese One-Piece Dress
Valerie Wilson Trower

Overview: Hong Kong
Valery M. Garrett

Performance Dress in China and Taiwan
Alexandra B. Bonds, Dongshin Chang and Elizabeth Johnson

Hakka
SNAPSHOT: Hakka Dress in and near Hong Kong
Elizabeth Lominska Johnson

Introduction to China’s National Minorities
John E. Vollmer

National Minorities in Guangdong and Guangxi Provinces
Phila McDaniel

SNAPSHOT: Zhuang National Minority
Phila McDaniel

Li National Minority
Anne Csete

Miao National Minority
Gina Corrigan

SNAPSHOT: Dress and Cultural Memory among the Miao
Phila McDaniel

National Minorities Primarily in Guizhou Province
John E. Vollmer

National Minorities in Yunnan Province
Rachel Silberstein

National Minorities Primarily in Sichuan Province
Phila McDaniel

Yi National Minority
Stevan Harrell and Bamo Qubumo

Tujia National Minority
Xu Wu

Hui National Minority
SNAPSHOT: Hui Dress—Experiments in Being Modern and Muslim
Kevin Caffrey

National Minorities in Heilongjiang Province
SNAPSHOT: Hezhen Fish-skin Garments
Ruth Lor Malloy

Manchu National Minority
Pamela Kyle Crossley

SNAPSHOT: National Minorities in Gansu and Qinghai Provinces
John E. Vollmer

National Minorities in Xinjiang Province
Rahile Dawut (Reyila Dawuti)

Overview of Tibet
Valrae Reynolds

Tibetan Minorities
Phila McDaniel

Tibetan Jewelry
John Clarke

Overview of Taiwan
Ching-Yi Cheng and Hsu-Chun Su

Aboriginal Dress in Taiwan
John E. Vollmer

Textile Manufacture in Taiwan
Yu Cheng-Ping and Wu Chi-Jen

Garment Manufacture and Retailing
in Taiwan
Yeung Wai-Hon

Overview of Mongolia
Monisha Ahmed

PART 4: Korea
Overview of Korea: Traditional
Lee Kyung Ja

Overview of Korea: Modern
Min-Ja Kim

Bridal Dress in Korea
Na Young Hong

Textile Manufacture in Korea
Juyeon Park, Marilyn DeLong, and Eunah Yoh

Garment Manufacture and Retailing in Korea
Geum Key-Sook

PART 5: Japan
Overview of Japan
Annie M. Van Assche

Kimono
Terry Satsuki Milhaupt

Festival Dress in Japan
Gloria Granz Gonick

Bridal Dress in Japan
Ofra Goldstein-Gidoni

Textile Manufacture in Japan
Desiree Koslin

Garment Manufacture and Retailing in Japan
Hye-Shin Kim, Eunah Yoh, and Eun-Young Shin

Living National Treasures: Textile and Garment Artists
Yoshiko I. Wada

Street and Youth Fashion in Japan
Christy Tidwell

Performance Dress in Japan
Monica Bethe

Ainu
Chisato O. Dubreuil

Overview of the Ryukyus
Kristine M. Kamiya

Shuri Textile Manufacture
SNAPSHOT: Hatsuko Miyahira (1922–), a Living National Treasure
Ginko Le Bars Miyahira

Index

Volume 7: Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands

Encyclopedia Preface
Preface to Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands

PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands

Geographical and Geopolitical Introduction
Margaret Maynard

Economies and Cultures of Dress
Margaret Maynard

PART 2: First Nation Peoples of Australia
Aboriginal Dress in Australia: Evidence and Resources
Philip Jones

Aboriginal Dress in Southeast Australia
Sylvia Kleinert

SNAPSHOT: Aboriginal Skin Cloaks
Fabri Blacklock

Dressing the Body in the Western Desert, Australia
Diana Young

Aboriginal Dress in Arnhem Land
Louise Hamby

Aboriginal Dress in North Queensland, Australia
Kate Khan

Aboriginal Dress in the Kimberley, Western Australia
Kim Akerman

Torres Strait Islander Dress, Australia
Anna Edmundson

PART 3: European Dress in Australia
Images as a Resource for the Study of Australian Dress
Margot Riley

Resources: Collections of Colonial Dress and Fashion in Australia
Catherine Reade

Settler Dress in Australia
Damayanthie Eluwawalage

Retailing, Clothing, and Textiles Production in Australia
Sally Weller

Jews in the Melbourne Garment Trade
Anna Epstein

The Wool Industry in Australia
Prudence Black and Anne Farren

Rural Dress in Australia
Jennifer Craik

Swimwear, Surfwear, and the Bronzed Body in Australia
Jennifer Craik

PART 4: Fashion in Australia
Urban Fashion Culture in Australia
Juliette Peers

Making and Retailing Exclusive Dress in Australia—1940s to 1960s
Roger Leong

The Melbourne Cup and Racewear in Australia
Juliette Peers

Cosmetics and Beauty Culture in Australia
Jennifer Craik

The Australiana Phenomenon in Australia
Sally Gray

Urban Menswear in Australia
Vicki Karaminas

Fashion Photography in Australia
Daniel Palmer and Kate Rhodes

Independent Australian Fashion
Danielle Whitfi eld

Global Positioning of Australian Fashion
Robyn Healy

PART 5: Types of Dress in Australia
Footwear in Australia
Lindie Ward

Ceremonial and Religious Dress in Australia
Lynne Hume

Military and Civil Uniforms in Australia
Craig Wilcox

Sportswear in Australia
Andrea Mitchell, Christine Schmidt, and Jinna Tay

PART 6: People and Dress in Australia
Convict Dress in Australia
Julia Clark, Linda Clark, Kim Simpson, Ian Terry, and Elspeth Wishart

Subcultural and Alternative Dress in Australia
Glynis Jones

Queer Dress in Australia
Peter McNeil

Children’s Wear in Australia
Michelle Bakar and Vicki Karaminas

PART 7: First Nation People (Maori) of New Zealand
Introduction to Maori Dress
Patricia Te Arapo Wallace

Maori and European Dress: Cultural Exchanges in New Zealand
Jennifer Quérée

Moko Maori: Skin Modification
Ngahuia Te Awekotuku, Linda Waimarie Nikora, and Mohi Robert Rua

The Maori Pari (Bodice)
SNAPSHOT: The Pari as Personal Cultural Property
Jo Diamond

PART 8: European (Pakeha) Dress and Fashion in New Zealand
Resources for the Study of European Dress and Fashion in New Zealand
Laura Jocic

Dress and Fashion in New Zealand
Angela Lassig

SNAPSHOT: Paua Shell Costume Jewelry in New Zealand
Petronella J. M. van de Wijdeven

New Zealand Textiles and Apparel Sectors
Raechel M. Laing and Cheryl A. Wilson

Black and New Zealand Dress
Bronwyn Labrum

Designer Fashion in New Zealand
Alison Goodrum

SNAPSHOT: A Maori Fashion Designer
Bronwyn Labrum

PART 9: People and Dress in New Zealand
Liturgical Robes in New Zealand
Sandra Heffernan

Antarctic Explorer Wear
Natalie Cadenhead

The Social Significance of Institutional Dress in New Zealand
Bronwyn Labrum

SNAPSHOT: The Swanndri in New Zealand
Bronwyn Labrum

School Uniforms in New Zealand
Elaine Webster

Wearable Art in New Zealand
Natalie Smith

Pacific Sisters: Urban Pacific Art, Fashion, and Performance
Feeonaa Wall

Pacific Street Styles in Auckland
Giles Peterson and Billie Lythberg

PART 10: Peoples of the Pacific: Overview
Introduction to the Dress of the Pacific Islands
Adrienne L. Kaeppler

Photographic Representations of Pacific Peoples
Max Quanchi

The Social World of Cloth in the Pacific Islands
Susanne Küchler and Graeme Were

PART 11: Polynesia
Hawaiian Dress Prior to 1898
Linda Boynton Arthur

Niue: Dress, Hats, and Woven Accessories
Hilke Thode-Arora

Missionary Dress in Samoa
Prue Ahrens

Dressing the Body in Samoa
Sean Mallon

SNAPSHOT: Ta’ovala and Kiekie of Tonga
Fanny Wonu Veys

Barkcloth Body Wrapping in Tonga
Fanny Wonu Veys

Dance Costumes in French Polynesia
Jane Freeman Moulin

Tahitian Tattoos
Makiko Kuwahara

Dress and Appearance in Tahiti
Karen Stevenson

Fijian Dress and Body Modifications
Roderick Ewins

Dress of the Cook Islands
SNAPSHOT: The Mu’umu’u
Kalissa Alexeyeff

PART 12: Melanesia
Bilas: Dressing the Body in Papua New Guinea
Michael Mel

Textiles and Dress of the Motu Koita People
Jacquelyn A. Lewis-Harris

Dressing the Body in Bariai
Naomi M. McPherson

Asmat Dress
Pauline van der Zee

Dress of Vanuatu
Lissant Bolton and Jean Tarisesei

Dress in New Caledonia
Frédéric Angleviel
Translated by Marissa Dooris and Vikram Iyer

Body Ornaments of Solomon Islands
Ben Burt

PART 13: Micronesia
Dress in Kiribati
SNAPSHOT: Te Be and Te Tibuta
Petra M. Autio

Lavalava (Cloth) of the Rei Metau
Carmen C. H. Petrosian-Husa

Dress of the Chamorro
Judith S. Flores

Dress in the Marshall Islands
SNAPSHOT: The Bikini
Nancy J. Pollock

Index

Volume 8: West Europe

Encyclopedia Preface
Preface to West Europe

PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in West Europe
The Study of Dress and Fashion in West Europe
SNAPSHOT: Diderot’s Encyclopedia and the Study of Dress
Lise Skov

The Geographic and Cultural Regions
Lise Skov

Ethnic (Folk) Dress in West Europe
Helen Bradley Foster

SNAPSHOT: The Concept of National Dress in the Nordic Countries
Bjørn Sverre Hol Haugen

SNAPSHOT: Why Does the United Kingdom Not Have National Dress?
Alison L. Goodrum

The Dynamics of Fashion in West Europe
Bo Lönnqvist

The Structure and Form of European Clothes
SNAPSHOT: Madeleine Vionnet and the “Goddess” Gown
Peter McNeil

Interpreting “Civilization” through Dress
Sandra Niessen

PART 2: Early History of Dress and Fashion in West Europe
Early History of Dress and Fashion in Continental West Europe
Mechthild Müller

Early History of Dress and Fashion in Italy and the Iberian Peninsula
Carmen Alfaro Giner (Iberian Peninsula) and Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli (Italy, Translated by Ana Alacovska)

Early History of Dress and Fashion in Great Britain and Ireland
Naomi E.A. Tarrant

Early History of Dress and Fashion in the Nordic Countries
Eva B. Andersson, Margarita Gleba, Ulla Mannering, and Marianne Vedeler

PART 3: The Fashion Industry in West Europe
Materials
Giorgio Riello

SNAPSHOT: Linen
Margarita Gleba

SNAPSHOT: Wool
Ingun Grimstad Klepp
Translated by Stig Erik Sørheim and Kjetil Enstad

SNAPSHOT: Fur
Lise Skov

SNAPSHOT: Silk
Giorgio Riello

SNAPSHOT: Cotton
Giorgio Riello

SNAPSHOT: Synthetics
Michiel Scheffer

SNAPSHOT: Intelligent Textiles
Bradley Quinn

The Textile Industry
SNAPSHOT: Leading Firms, 1700–2010
Michiel Scheffer

SNAPSHOT: IT in the Clothing Industry
Céline Abecassis-Moedas

The Apparel Industry
Jan Hilger

European Retailers and Global Sourcing Networks
Lotte Thomsen

SNAPSHOT: Creating a Collection in a Big Company
Kasper Tang Vangkilde

Size and Fit in Industrially Produced Clothes
SNAPSHOT: Women’s Experiences of Size and Fit
Karen Borregaard

Fashion Designers
SNAPSHOT: Coco Chanel
Peter McNeil

SNAPSHOT: Fashion Forecasting
Ingrid Giertz-Mårtenson

Fashion Photography
Patrik Aspers

Fashion Journalism
SNAPSHOT: Fashion Journalists
Kate Nelson Best

Ethics and Industry
Lise Skov

Home Production
Tone Rasch

Care and Maintenance
SNAPSHOT: Why Do Women Throw Out Clothes?
Ingun Grimstad Klepp
Translated by Stig Erik Sørheim and Kjetil Enstad

Secondhand Clothing
Heike Jenss

PART 4: Continental West Europe
France
Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell

Paris as a Fashion City
Martine Elzingre
Translated by Pierre Hodgson

Belgium
Karlijn Bronselaer

The Netherlands
SNAPSHOT: Viktor & Rolf
SNAPSHOT: Hindeloopen Regional Dress
José Teunissen
Translated by Michael Gibbs

Germany
SNAPSHOT: Jews and the Berlin Fashion Industry
Irene Guenther

Austria
Irene Guenther

Switzerland
Sigrid Pallmert
Translated by Kirsten Warner and Philipp Thüring

PART 5: Italy and the Iberian Peninsula
Italy
Elisabetta Merlo and Francesca Polese

Milan as a Fashion City
Simona Segre Reinach

Spain
SNAPSHOT: Majos, the Meeting Point between Folk Dress and Fashion
SNAPSHOT: Three Designers in Alto Costura
Silvia Ventosa
Translated by Lucy Lawton

Portugal
SNAPSHOT: Fashion Events in Portugal
Paula C. G. da Costa Soares

PART 6: Great Britain and Ireland
England
Naomi E. A. Tarrant

London as a Fashion City
Edwina Ehrman

Scotland 305
Naomi E. A. Tarrant

SNAPSHOT: Tweed
Fiona Anderson

SNAPSHOT: Wales
Elen Phillips

Ireland
SNAPSHOT: Limerick in the 1950s
Síle de Cléir

PART 7: Nordic Countries
Sweden
SNAPSHOT: The Swedish Clog
Ulla Brück

Denmark
Marie Riegels Melchior

Norway
Tone Rasch

SNAPSHOT: Norwegian Folk Dress in the United States
Carol Colburn

Sámi
Desiree Koslin

Finland
Bo Lönnqvist

Iceland
Æsa Sigurjónsdóttir

Greenland
Cunera Buijs

PART 8: Types of Dress
Uniforms
Nigel Arch

SNAPSHOT: Lufthansa Uniforms
Regina Henkel

Sports and Dress
Ingun Grimstad Klepp
Translated by Stig Erik Sørheim and Kjetil Enstad

SNAPSHOT: Bathing
Nigel Yates

Underwear
SNAPSHOT: The Corset
Grace Evans

Accessories
SNAPSHOT: Hats
SNAPSHOT: Glasses
SNAPSHOT: Gloves
SNAPSHOT: Handbags
Valerie Cumming

Jewelry
Gabriele Mentges

Footwear
SNAPSHOT: Salvatore Ferragamo
SNAPSHOT: Sports Shoes
Giorgio Riello

Cosmetics and Skin Care
Brian Moeran and Lise Skov

Fragrances and Perfumes
SNAPSHOT: Chanel N° 5
Brian Moeran

PART 9: Peoples and Dress
Religion and Dress
Nigel Yates, Dan Cohn-Sherbok, and Dawoud El-Alami

SNAPSHOT: Muslim Dress and the Head-Scarf Debate
Annelies Moors

SNAPSHOT: North American Influences on West European Dress
Rebecca Arnold

Class, Work, and Dress
SNAPSHOT: Smocks
Alexandra Kim

Gender
Gertrud Lehnert

Children’s Clothes
Viveka Berggren Torell

SNAPSHOT: Sexualization of Preteen Girls in Norway
Mari Rysst

Subcultural Dress
David Muggleton and Dunja Brill

Lesbian and Gay Dress
Shaun Cole

Body and Beauty
Patrizia Calefato
Translated by Sveva Scaramuzzi

SNAPSHOT: Beauty, Nature, and Equality
Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Costume for Dance
Helena Wulff

SNAPSHOT: Carnival
Lidia Sciama

Music and Dress
Else Skjold

Visual Media and Dress
Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Church Gibson

SNAPSHOT: Historical Dress in French Film
Jennie Cousins

Art and Dress
SNAPSHOT: Elsa Schiaparelli
Peter McNeil

The Novel and Dress
Clair Hughes

Index

Volume 9: East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus

Encyclopedia Preface
Preface to East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus

PART 1: Overview of Dress and Fashion in East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus
Introduction to Dress and Fashion in East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus
Djurdja Bartlett

Geography and Climate: East Central Europe, the Baltic Countries, Russia, and the Caucasus
Pamela Smith

Geography and Climate: Southeast Europe
Liz Mellish

Early History of Dress
Liz Mellish

PART 2: History and Culture in East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus
Ethnic Dress in East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus
SNAPSHOT: The Pomaks
Linda Welters

Differences and Similarities in Ethnic Dress in East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus
Linda Welters

Embroidery in East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus
Pamela Smith

Fibers and Textiles in East Europe
Margaret C. Perivoliotis

Jewish Dress
Pamela Smith

Roma Dress
Iulia Hasdeu

The Influences of Ottoman Culture
June Hill

SNAPSHOT: Balkan Outlaws and Bandits
William Bartlett

SNAPSHOT: The Portrayal of Balkan Dress in Western Travel Books
Antonia Young

SNAPSHOT: Edith Durham: Victorian Traveler and Dress Collector in the Balkans
Philippa Mackenzie

Fashion under Socialism
Djurdja Bartlett

SNAPSHOT: Eastern Europe and the Politics of Costume at the Eurovision Song Contest
Dean Vuletic

PART 3: East Central Europe and the Baltics
Belarus
Hanna Chuchvaha

Croatia: Ethnic Dress
Vesna Zoric´

SNAPSHOT: Ideology and Ethnic Dress in Croatia
Aida Brenko

Croatia: Urban Dress, Seventeenth to Nineteenth Centuries
Andrea Klobucˇar

Croatia: Urban Dress, Twentieth to Twenty-First Centuries
Maja Arcˇabic´

Czech Ethnic Dress
Patricia Williams

Czech Urban Dress, Nineteenth Century to 1948
Eva Uchalová

SNAPSHOT: Dress in Czech Film of the 1920s and 1930s
Marketa Uhlirová

Czech Urban Dress, 1948 to Twenty-First Century
SNAPSHOT: Following Fashion
Konstantina Hlavácˇková

Estonia: Ethnic Dress
Ellen Värv

Estonia: Urban Dress
SNAPSHOT: Everyday Styles under Socialism
Reet Piiri

SNAPSHOT: Tallinn House of Fashion under Socialism
Anu Ojavee

SNAPSHOT: Estonia, Subcultural Dress
Ellen Värv

Hungary: Ethnic Dress
Ágnes Fülemile

Hungary: Urban Dress up to 1948
Katalin Medvedev

Hungary: Urban Dress, 1948 to 2000
Tibor Valuch

SNAPSHOT: Hungarian Fashion after 1989
Ildikó Simonovics

SNAPSHOT: Changes in Gender in Socialism
Katalin Medvedev

SNAPSHOT: Hungarian Subcultures during Socialism
Sándor Horváth

Latvia: Ancient and Ethnic Dress
Ieva Pigozne-Brinkmane

Latvia: Urban Dress
Tatjana Cvetkova and Edı¯te Parute

Lithuania: Ethnic Dress
Ruta Saliklis

Lithuania: Urban Dress
Taira Milus˘auskaité

SNAPSHOT: Lithuanian Urban Dress, 1940s to Twenty-First Century
Djurdja Bartlett

Poland: Ethnic Dress
Anita Broda

Poland: Urban Dress up to 1900
SNAPSHOT: The Kontusz Sash
Anna Straszewska

SNAPSHOT: Polish Fashion in the 1920s and 1930s
Anna Sieradzka

Polish Urban Dress in Transition from Socialism to Post-Socialism
Bogna Dowgiałło and Agnieszka Burska

SNAPSHOT: Polish Youth Fashion under Socialism
Anna Pelka

Slovakia: Ethnic Dress
Patricia Williams

SNAPSHOT: Variants of the Woman’s Cap in Slovak Ethnic Dress
Juraj Zajonc

SNAPSHOT: Slovak Embroidery
Oı’ga Danglová

Slovakia: Urban Dress
SNAPSHOT: Women of the Isabelle Association

SNAPSHOT: Female Tailoring in a Small Town in Považie, Slovakia
Magdaléna M. Zubercová
Translated by Jana Levická, František Pál, George Hirner and L’ubica Chorváthová

SNAPSHOT: Slovak Fashion after 1989
Zuzana Sidlikova

Slovenia
SNAPSHOT: Jewelry
Janja Žagar

Ukraine
Natalie Kononenko

SNAPSHOT: Ukrainian Fashion Week
Zoya Zvinyatskovskaya

SNAPSHOT: Ukrainian Fashion, the 1940s to 1990s
Tetiana Bobchenko

PART 4: Russia and the Caucasus
Armenia
SNAPSHOT: Akhalzikha Dress
Gary Lind-Sinanian and Susan Lind-Sinanian

Azerbaijan
Lala Eldarova

SNAPSHOT: Azerbaijan: Urban Dress, the 1920s to the Twenty-First Century
Djurdja Bartlett

Georgia
Irina Koshoridze

Russia: Ethnic Dress
SNAPSHOT: Russian Cotton Prints from Ivanovo and Vladimir
Pamela Smith

Early Noble Dress in Russia
Oksana Sekatcheva

SNAPSHOT: French Travelers Writing on Russian Dress
Raisa Marduhovna Kirsanova