1.1 User's Guide and Site Help
1.2 Other Resources
- our FAQs, which answer specific editorial, customer service, and technical questions; and
- the About page which offers a wide range of general information and details about the content and features in the Berg Fashion Library.
2 Accessing the site
2.1. Automatic Authentication
2.2. Username and Password
2.3. Athens/Access Management Federation
2.4 Library Card
3 The basics
A. Site Header
- Sign In: If you have created a personal username in the Berg Fashion Library, use this link to sign in to access your saved searches and content.
- Sign Up: Use this link to create a personal username in the Berg Fashion Library to begin saving content and searches – see below for more information.
- Contact Us: Use this form to submit comments or questions regarding the content of the site, sales inquiries or access and technical problems.
- Subscriber Services: Subscribers to the Berg Fashion Library can access their account details, update account information, retrieve usage statistics, and enable OpenURL access.
- FAQs: Answers to frequently asked questions about the Berg Fashion Library, covering content, subscriptions, access, accessibility and technical aspects.
- Help: Comprehensive help information about the Berg Fashion Library site and services.
B. Site Navigation Bar
- Home: Clicking on this link will return you to the home page.
- About: Offers a wide range of general information and details about the content and features in the Berg Fashion Library.
- Take a Tour: Presents a downloadable guided tour of the content and features of the Berg Fashion Library
- How to Order: Provides information about how to subscribe to the Berg Fashion Library, and about any current special offers
- Browse: Access to the interactive browse tool, driven by the tailor-made Berg Fashion Library taxonomy—see Browse by taxonomy for more information
- Help: Context-sensitive help information
- the Highlight and Find tool: if you select a word or phrase anywhere on the page and click this, your selected text will populate the search box and the Berg Fashion Library will be searched automatically using that word or phrase
- My Content: links to all content items that you have viewed in a session are stored here for immediate retrieval—a count of the content items you have viewed is shown in parentheses. Hover over the link to bring a drop-down of the items, which you can select to return to that item:
- My Searches: links to all of the searches you have performed in a session, with hit counts, for rapid retrieval—a count of all the searches you have performed is shown in parentheses. Hover over the link to bring a drop-down of the searches, which you can select to perform that search again:
3.2. Content Types
The site consists of content types from a number of different sources. Categories relating to these sources are used in the interactive browser which allows you to choose and filter content within Search and Browse results. General descriptions of each type of content are on the About pages.
The Berg Fashion Library contains:
- reference articles (the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion and the A-Z of Fashion)
- images from the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion
- museum and gallery collections pages (descriptive and directory information for outstanding fashion collections)
- collection objects (illustrated and with full descriptive information)
- dictionary entries (from the Berg Dictionary of Fashion History)
The Berg Fashion Library allows you to search its content using both the Quick Search box at the top right of every page and the Advanced Search form, accessed from the link to the right of the quick search box.
You can also perform image-only searches to access just the content from the Berg Fashion Library's image bank.
There are a number of features and controls on results pages to allow you to filter results and navigate through them, both for general result sets and for results from the image bank.
4.1 Basic Guide for Conducting Searches
The following rules apply to all of the searches on the site.
4.1.1. Exact matches
4.1.2. Boolean operators
4.1.4. Special characters
4.1.5. Case sensitivity and punctuation
4.1.6. "Stop" words
4.2 Quick Search
The Quick Search box appears in the top right of every page on the site. Enter your term into the box and select GO.
Quick Search performs a full-text search on the following content types within the Berg Fashion Library:
- reference articles
- eBook chapters
- captions for images from the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion
- addresses and descriptions of museum and gallery collections
- descriptions and summary information relating to collection objects
4.3 Image-only searches
Check the box to the right of the GO button to limit your search to the Berg Fashion Library's image bank:
4.4 Advanced Search
The Advanced Search form can be reached by selecting the link to the right of the Quick Search box on the site header:
- full-text searching
- bibliographic criteria
- image criteria
4.4.1 Full-text searching
- on all of the words you enter
- on the words you enter as an exact phrase
- on any of the words you enter
- none of the words you enter
- the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion
4.4.2 Bibliographic criteria
- publication date
- ISBN or ISSN
- digital object identifier (DOI)
4.4.3 Image criteria
- object type (e.g. jacket, gown)
- designer or manufacturer (e.g. Chanel, Birkenstock)
- object date
- place (e.g. Paris)
4.5.1 Search Results Ranking and Ordering
- By default the results of a search are ranked by relevance. This means results are ranked according to the frequency of your term/s occurrence in a document, relative to its occurrence in other documents. When more than one search term is entered, proximity of terms is not considered (except in the case of the use of quotation marks).
- Searches use an implicit "and" between terms.
- Searches are case-insensitive when all search terms are in lower-case.
- Searches are diacritic-insensitive.
- Searches are punctuation-insensitive, unless punctuation is also a common diacritical mark (ex: insensitive to hyphens; aware of apostrophes)
- Highest ranking is given to an occurrence of your search term/s in the titles and headwords for content. Subheadings are next in rank. Full text is ranked last.
4.5.2 Navigating Search Results
- Title (the identifying label of the content item, e.g. the article title)
- Source (the name of the content set from which the item is drawn, e.g. book title)
4.5.3 Navigating Image Results
There are three ways of browsing content within the Berg Fashion Library:
5.1.1 The Berg Fashion Library taxonomy
- People & Organizations
- Textiles & Materials
- The Fashion Industry
5.1.2 The taxonomy viewer
- see the classification facets available at a particular level
- expand a particular facet to see the finer-grained classifications at a lower level
- select a facet at any level below the top level to see content that has been indexed with that classification
- by selecting Browse on the primary navigation bar
- by expanding the viewer icon to the right of a general results page
The collection objects in the Berg Fashion Library are indexed according to the date when the object was made, which means you can navigate along a timeline that spans the collections, select a time period, and see images of the objects within your chosen period. You can then navigate from there to a page for a particular collection object.
5.2 Browse by time
5.2.1 Timeline viewer
The timeline viewer can be accessed via the Explore by Time link at the lower left of the home page.
The viewer is made up of three parts:
- the timeline itself, which shows the span of dates reflected in the Berg Fashion Library's collection objects
- the image carousel, showing images for collection objects with your chosen period
- a context window, showing geographical information about the current object and other available images
The timeline extends from the date of the earliest collection object in the Berg Fashion Library to the present day.
It carries a slider control which shows the current time period, as a span of twenty years:
You can move this slider to the left or to the right to select the period for which you wish to see collection objects—when you release the mouse images relating to your selection will be shown in the image carousel (see below).
126.96.36.199 Image carousel
This shows images of objects relating to your chosen time period:
The central image is the active image, and selecting this will take you to a page showing full information for the object.
You can move the carousel forwards or backwards by using the large arrows to the left and right.
188.8.131.52 Context window
The context window shows more information for the object.
The world map will illuminate the relevant continent for the object to place it in its geographic context. As you move from image to image in the carousel, this illumination will change accordingly.
If there is more than one image for an object available (e.g. if an item of clothing has been photographed from a variety of aspects) the alternative thumbnails are shown—selecting any of these will take you to a page showing full information for the object
5.2 Browse by place
The Berg Fashion Library's content covers every corner of the globe, and the browse by place feature allows you to view the content indexed for various geographic areas, via an interactive map of the world:
The interactive map can be accessed via the Explore by Place link at the lower right of the home page.
As you move your mouse over the various parts of the world the area lights up and shows the name of the area. Brief information about the Berg Fashion Library's coverage of this area is shown on the right.
Clicking on the area brings a pop-up window with a sample of the available content in each of three areas:
- the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion
- other textual content
- images and collection objects
6 Viewing content
6.1 Encyclopedia entry
Entries from the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion show, above the article title, the volume and the part from which the article is drawn. To the left, other articles from the same part are shown as (with the current article in context), and sub-sections within the current article are shown. All of these are links.
Images embedded within articles may be selected to produce a pop-window with a higher-quality version of the same image, together with the caption information.
6.2 Book chapter view
Chapters from eBooks show to the left the title of the book from which the content is drawn, with the current chapter placed in context within a table of contents.
The book title may be selected for bibliographic information about the title from which the chapter is drawn.
6.3 Book view
Information about a complete title is presented above a table of contents; you can select items from the table of contents to be taken to a chapter view page.
6.4 A-Z of Fashion view
Articles from the A-Z of Fashion offer a selectable table of sub-sections to the left, above a list of the cross-references embedded within the article.
6.5 Encyclopedia image view
Images from the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion in search result sets link through to a page that presents the image with its caption and credit information.
To the left is a link to the encyclopedia article from which the image is drawn.
6.6 Museum collection view
Information about a museum or gallery collection related to dress and fashion is presented as combination of directory information to the left (including a link to the collection's website), and descriptive information in the main part of the page.
If the Berg Fashion Library has images of objects in the collection these are shown in the lower part of the page. You can browse the images in the carousel by selecting the left or right arrows, and selecting the full-size image will take you to an object view page. Thumbnails may be selected to bring a full-size image into the image carousel.
6.7 Object view
Images of objects from museum collections are accompanied by descriptive information and, to the left, summary information such as date, creator and dimensions.
If more than one image for the object is available these are shown to the right of the main image, and may be selected to view the chosen image at full size.
6.8 Dictionary view
Entries from the Berg Dictionary of Fashion History show the period for which the term and definition apply, and (by means of M or F) whether the term applies to male or female dress.